Many Chefs are concerned about the raising of
cattle and the use of antibiotics. This is a topic that
concerns us also, and we at Preferred are insistent with
our farmers and ranchers that there is transparency in
how they raise their animals so we can better know how
sustainable the operation is. As far blanketing the use
of all antibiotics as bad or non-sustainable we are more
interested in knowing the why’s and how’s of usage if
used at all. Let’s face it, cattle are living things and
are susceptible to sickness, parasites and other
ailments that good husbandry would and should address.
What we want to know is if the husbandry itself is
causing the problem that necessitates the treatment. If
that is so then it is the methods of raising the animal
and not the medication itself that calls sustainability
to question.
One
substance used in the finishing of ruminating animals on
high energy diets is an ionophore called monensin.
Ionophores disrupt transmembrane ion concentration
gradients, required for the proper functioning and
survival of microorganisms, and thus have antibiotic
properties. They are produced naturally by certain
microbes and act as a defense against competing
microbes. To put it simply the ionophore monensin
(marketed as Rumensin) kills certain bacteria that
causes acidosis in the cattle’s rumen thus allowing it
to metabolize and digest better adding to the general
health of the animal.
Because monensin
(aka Rumensin) does this it is technically classified by
the USDA as an antibiotic, but not in the classic sense
of the word. Monensin is not systemic so it does not
enter the blood stream; it stays in the gut so there is
nothing passed on to the consumer of the meat. There are
certain bacteria that are resistant to monensin but some
authorities feel there is not the same concern of super
strains of bacteria developing that become antibiotic
resistant because of misuse because this is strictly
dealing with the rumen of cattle and acid producing
bacteria that live there. Yet, there are natural
producers that feel that any type of product that kills
existing bacteria in an animal may have unknown effects
down the line, so choose not to use
it.
We
conversed with Extension Associate Mike Baker of
Cornell University and he
mentioned to us that Rumensin aids in the process of
breaking down fiber thus cutting down on methane
production as greenhouse gases are produced through
acidosis. Does monensin make the final product greener
because of less greenhouse gasses produced by the animal
leaving less of a carbon footprint in that less feed is
needed in the process? Well that might be debated but
analyzing the use of what the USDA classifies an
antibiotic the argument may be made that this may not be
so bad after all. If the animal is healthier, more
comfortable, and is metabolizing high energy feed like
corn better would that not be classified as good
husbandry? Many farmers believe so, yet some farmers are
hesitant.
Bill Niman of BN RANCH and original founder of
Niman Ranch, (though no longer affiliated with that
company), feels that ionophores are used because the
cattle are introduced to grain at too young of an age
and if the gut was allowed to mature a little longer
before the animal was fed grain the Rumensin would be
unnecessary. Mr. Niman is concerned of the possibilities
of super strains of resistant microorganisms forming
that would be harder to control. He favors a more
natural slower growth rate based on a grass diet making
monensin unnecessary in his
operation.
If
a Chef demands well marbled meat, then high energy feed
is necessary in finishing it. The debate is in taking a
more natural approach, but what is a natural approach
for an animal that has been bred for eating over the
centuries? What is the natural setting for Hereford cattle? Do you
ever encounter an Angus steer in the forest, ready for
the hunter to stalk, kill and eat? By nature of raising
the animal for food the setting has been altered to some
extent. Good husbandry calls for keeping the animal
healthy and content in a sustainable way. Now the farmer
or rancher has decisions to make in this
regard.
Does a rancher use an ionophore, probiotics, or
some other method? Is the animal finished slower on
straight grass or are they fattened on grain? If so how
is acidosis controlled? Is utilizing some technology to
enhance the process of raising animals necessarily
working out of harmony with the facts of sustainability?
There may be numerous answers to this question. We at
Preferred are interested in finding these answers so you
as a chef and buyer can make an informed
decision.
John Paul Khoury,
ACF/CCC
Corporate
Chef
Preferred Meats,
Inc.